Chimichurri Charcoal Chicken: A Once-Beloved Spot Struggles to Recapture Its Magic
Lawrence’s Chimichurri Charcoal Chicken has had a tumultuous journey over the past few years, and our recent visit revealed a restaurant still searching for its identity after ownership changes and an extended closure.
The Evolution (or Devolution?) of Chimichurri
Long-time patrons will remember when Chimichurri was a go-to spot for affordable, flavorful charcoal chicken. Those days appear to be gone. As one reviewer noted, “A half a chicken with two sides is $30 dollars. When I first went there a few years ago, it was $12.” That’s a 150% price increase that hasn’t been matched by improvements in quality. Also, a bottle of soda for $4.00 and a bottle of Poland Spring for $3.00 does seem a bit aggressive. (For benchmarking purposes, Ahuva’s Grill is approx half price on drinks, as is Graze.)
The restaurant closed its doors in 2024, leaving the community wondering about its fate. While it has since reopened under reportedly new management, the transition hasn’t been smooth.
Our Experience: Hits and Misses
The Grilled Chicken: Missing the Mark
The signature grilled chicken—presumably the namesake dish—was disappointingly mediocre. The meat came out dry and underseasoned, lacking the bold, charred flavor you’d expect from a restaurant with “charcoal chicken” in its name. For a dish that should be the star of the show, it was OK but fell somewhat flat.
This aligns with other recent reviews. As one former fan lamented: “The new management has destroyed the chicken. I tried it this week, the first time since the new owners took it over…. I was completely underwhelmed. The chicken was bland, and I doubt it was even made on a charcoal grill.”
The Fried Chicken: A Pleasant Surprise
In contrast, the fried chicken significantly outperformed its grilled counterpart. Well-seasoned and properly executed, it offered the flavor and satisfaction the grilled chicken lacked. If you do visit, this might be your safer bet.
The Unexpected Star: Garlic Potatoes
The real standout of our meal was the garlic potatoes side dish. Crispy, well-seasoned, and bursting with flavor, these potatoes were everything the chicken should have been. They alone might be worth a visit—though at current prices, that’s a tough sell.
Identity Crisis: Doing Too Much?
Perhaps symptomatic of the restaurant’s struggle to find its footing is the seeming addition of “Ambah,” a sub-brand offering Israeli food at the same location. While diversification can be smart, it raises questions about focus. Is Chimichurri trying to be everything to everyone? The menu now spans charcoal chicken, fried chicken, burgers, and Israeli cuisine such as shawarma—a potentially scattered approach that may be diluting what made the original concept work.
The Bottom Line
Chimichurri Charcoal Chicken is facing an uphill battle. Significant price increases, a lackluster hallmark “charcoal” chicken, and an apparent loss of focus have, in our opinion, eroded what made this spot special. At $30 for half a chicken and two sides, compared to $12 just a few years ago, diners rightfully expect excellence, not mediocrity.
The restaurant has lost its value proposition. While the fried chicken and garlic potatoes show that the kitchen is capable of producing quality food, the flagship grilled chicken needs serious attention. Unless Chimichurri can recapture the magic that made it a community favorite or justify its premium pricing with premium quality, it may continue to struggle in an increasingly competitive kosher dining landscape.
Would We Return? Only for the garlic potatoes, and even then, probably not at these prices and not to drive in from Brooklyn (Costco is a two-minute drive from Chimichuri, though, so if we were in the area anyway, some fried chicken from Chimichurri could make sense).
Location: 345 Central Avenue, Lawrence, NY
Price Range: $$
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