A Review of Malka NYC
Malka arrived in New York City with much fanfare but at a time of great tragedy. Part of Eyal Shani’s growing empire of mostly non-kosher restaurants spanning the globe beyond his native Israel, Malka brought something unique. It was Shani’s first kosher restaurant in the United States.
Malka arrived in the heat of the post-October 7th tension and when Shani was hectically assisting his fellow Israelis by converting some of his restaurants in the country to provide food to the displaced. The show had to go on, though, and the Jewish community in New York City was not only hungry for great food from a Michelin-starred chef but also for a sense of community. It is no wonder that even months after opening, it is still challenging to get a reservation at Malka. Thankfully, we got a slot late one evening as the hype at Malka was reaching a fever pitch.
The Vibe
As anyone familiar with Shani’s restaurants, there is a focus on the trademark Israeli “chill” that borders on almost carelessness. At Malka NYC, the sounds are varied and commotive. The ringing of bells signaling the latest dish is ready to be served is melded with tunes in Hebrew and the occasional jig by a passing waiter or, in this instance, a waitress. The open kitchen dramatically adds to the vibe and one can almost imagine they are in the kitchen of an old friend who recently returned from the market and is cooking up a storm. It is for this reason, and if the size of your party will allow for it, we recommend being seated at the bar with a front-row view of the culinary magic or at least getting a table as close to the kitchen as possible.
The Menu
As is classic Shani, the menu has item names that straddle the line between comedic, corny, and potentially even a bit overdone. Especially as this is a theme with at least some of his other restaurant brands, including the kosher Miznon location on Broadway. Think “Bag Of Green Beans” or Vegetables In A Bag” for Miznon and, in the case of Malka, an item called “A Bread Bag.” That said, part of Shani’s unique style centers on his stressing that even the most basic and natural ingredients can be delicious. Do note, though, that the menu is changed regularly.
What is slightly curious and still unclear is that the menu states “Inspired by Eyal Shani,” and the Chef is Jessica Masanotti, which we assume is just a more delicate way of putting the executive chef with a more prominent billing with Shani being more in the background.
The “Starters”
Our Rating 5/10
To start things off, we ordered several items from the “Bread” and “Vegetables” categories. While the focaccia was certainly fresh and tasty, it was far from memorable or unique. The “Bread Bag” was a few dips mixed together and if it was supposed to come with bread in a bag, we never received the same. On the vegetables front, the items were certainly unique, including the simplicity of their presentation, but the novelty quickly wore off, and their lack of flavor quickly became apparent. Take, for example, the “Okra bath,” which tasted like okra from a can with some tomato sauce. The broccolini tasted good and had a nice char, but the aioli tasted more like margarine mashed potatoes somehow and no horseradish was palpable. The thin layers of eggplant were certainly “flattened” as promised but parts of the dish had no salt whereas when tasting other patches of the eggplant a full salt crystal would be had.
The “Star of The Show”
Our Rating: 8.5/10
While the novelty of some of the starters and the overall ambiance of the restaurant was cool, prior to the main course, we were feeling slightly underwhelmed. Only by happenstance did we get an astounding treat, though. After all, the waitress was pushing the ribeye, yet we persevered and went for the “Lamb Dinosaur Bones,” and wow! Indeed, the lamb was cooked to perfection, but it also arrived in a giant dish with scrumptious vegetables. Quite frankly, the lamb was simply next level. Of note is that the lamb is Chef Masanotti’s creation, and she takes pride in placing it on the menu. The lamb is in contrast to some of the more standard issue Shani creations and, in our view, stands in its own league. After all, we also ordered the “Most Famous Malka Schnitzel,” which was crispy and good but not nearly in the league of the lamb.
The Drinks
Our Rating: 8/10
Malka has some really nice cocktails, wine, and beers, too. If, for some reason, you have an affinity for Israeli beers such as the infamous Goldstar, then they have you covered, too. On the cocktail front, we tried the Arak Limonada and the Old City Sunset. Both drinks were healthy on the booze but also had unique, high-quality notes.
On the dessert front, we tried the pistachio cake, which was lacking in pistachios and was pretty dry.
A Cool Spot With A True Standout & Some “Just Fine” Dishes
On balance, Malka in New York City is a cool spot and a welcome addition to the kosher diners’ Rolodex of choices. Many of the dishes we tried were novel but just OK. The lamb, though, made it all worth it and more. The perfectly cooked specimen combined with the vegetables and rustic presentation illustrates the pride that Chef Masanotti brings to the dish in particular. If it wasn’t clear yet, we highly recommend trying out the lamb as long as it is available. Great food, great vibes, and strong drinks. Visit Malka and do a jig with your waiter or waitress as the kitchen rings the bell, signaling another dish is ready at the pass. Hopefully, it’s the lamb.
